Ah, the tours... After a few minutes settling into our hotel in Puerto Villamil, we were immediately picked up for our first tour. After about 15 minutes picking up our tour mates, we arrived at Lago de Flamenco or Flamingo Lake. It was a relatively easy walk, just watch out for the occasional iguana or two hanging out in the walkway.
Ricardo, our guide, shared with us that there are about 500 flamingos in Galapagos and they arrived by accident from the Caribbean. They usually hang out at the lake since this brackish lagoon has ample supply of the flamingos favorite food. We only saw two flamingos that evening... maybe because they were still hanging out somewhere else.
On our first full day, we spent an afternoon at Islotes Tintoreras (Tintoreras Islets) – named after the white-tip reef sharks the frequent the place. These were the islands that greeted us as we approached Isabella.
The tour started with a tour around the islands. I finally
saw blue footed boobies – yes, they do exist and their blue feet did stand out! What an amazing sight! These three islands were full of these blue footed creatures amongst the iguanas. Poor iguanas – they were outnumbered and mostly ignored by the paparazzi. Unfortunately, we purposely left our iPhones because we anticipated that the situation is will be somewhat chaotic (unlike the luxury yacht). That said, I was still thinking I should have bought that Go-Pro.
After the boat tour, we snorkeled. I always welcome the opportunity to be in the water because I can get off my knees and feet.
This snorkeling outing was actually a long one, The first part of the snorkel was pretty much a drift snorkel, which helped me conserve energy. Regardless, we covered a lot of ground. Thank goodness the boat was following us. It was kinda cool to snorkel the mangroves – my first time. Although I did not see any reef sharks, I was very thankful that I did not see a swimming iguana. Those things freak me out (when they are swimming).
After the boat tour, we snorkeled. I always welcome the opportunity to be in the water because I can get off my knees and feet.
This snorkeling outing was actually a long one, The first part of the snorkel was pretty much a drift snorkel, which helped me conserve energy. Regardless, we covered a lot of ground. Thank goodness the boat was following us. It was kinda cool to snorkel the mangroves – my first time. Although I did not see any reef sharks, I was very thankful that I did not see a swimming iguana. Those things freak me out (when they are swimming).
The next day we enjoyed another snorkeling outing at Concha y Perla. A boat ride was not needed, since this site is closer to the dock. However, proximity to shore also made it easy for locals to get “decorations” for their house. Locals harvested shells and corals and thus limiting availability in the site.
Concha y Perla is actually a
better site for a snorkel because of its easy access and shallow waters. There were more to see in these waters including (the world’s biggest) pufferfish and turtles. If you are lucky, the juvenile seals will hang out and play with you. That was pretty amazing. Watch out though – there is a
current, but it’s onshore.
In the afternoon, we also took a low-key tour (read: not much walking) of the Highlands of Isabella. We started the tour at Mango Viewpoint to get a feel of the island. From there, we can see the transition from the sandy beaches, to the lava flow and the green highlands. We can even see the silhouette of several volcanoes.
Our next stop was at Campo Duro, an ecolodge nestled in the highlands. The campgrounds were beautiful: manicured lawns, a gorgeous eating area (although it was closed when we visited), and filled with beautiful trees. We took a walk around the grounds and saw papaya trees, banana plants, a bamboo like plant and ceibo trees. The ceibos are not native to Galapagos, but they were planted there so the sailors can find their way to fresh water. That means one can find a line of ceibo trees from the shore to the highlands.
A group of tortoises also reside at the camp so we had the pleasure of visiting these wonderful creatures one more time. The tortoises here were from the breeding center and eventually released to the wild. They do look that they are well taken care of.
Our last stop was at the Sucre Cave. It is actually lava tunnel. The pathway was cleared by the park for easier access. However, unlike the one in Santa Cruz, Cueva Sucre is not lighted. Our guide had huge flashlight and advised that we use our iPhones for extra light. Sure enough, it was dark and the ceilings can be low. Also, we did not have hard hats - so watch your head.
Overall, we enjoyed the tours in Isabella. Ricardo, our tour guide was very engaging and fun. We also had a great group and lots of laughter was shared along the way.
Downsides
First, we did have tours that we missed in Isabella. This was on our first morning and the tour was going to the Turtle Breeding Center and the Wall of Tears. This was primarily due to a missed pickup and miscommunication from the agency. We received 2 different times from the agent and we were picked up at a 3rd wildly different time. In hearing some conversations from other people, we were not the only ones who had this experience.
Similarly and more importantly, our pickup to the pier was supposed to show up at 5:30, with the boat sailing at 6. Since it was important, we decided to take a taxi instead.
To avoid this, I would recommend for the tour operators contact their customers the evening before with an ETA of the tour. This is very important especially when timing is critical. A missed tour can be a big deal especially to those who have travelled far to a remote place like the Galapagos.
On the bright side, we did make the best of the free morning and took a leisurely walk on the beach and around town to get a feel of the place and take care of some odds and ends. If you remember, the AC in our room was not working, so this gave us the time to talk to the hotel manager to take care of it.
We also hung out at the hotel taking advantage of the shade and free wifi. Puerto Villamil is a almost one horse town with dusty streets, so staying indoors has advantages. Also, I loved observing this yellow finch who is an expert fly catcher. Since he is there everyday, we believe he is employed by the hotel. His shift starts at around 9:00 am. He even has a friend who occasionally visits him, but the friend stays outside.
Last point to consider: the
said 5:30 am ferry pickup to the pier was for a 6 am ferry ride back to Santa Cruz, and
eventually a 3:30 flight out of Baltra back to Quito. This made for a very long
day with lots of wait time.
If we had known and had an
option, I would take the 3:30 ferry to Santa Cruz and spend an extra day, in
Santa Cruz (for souvenir shopping and dining). That way we can sleep in, enjoy
the beautiful beaches in Isabella, and have more time to pack and go to the
pier. Our tour group though was not flexible to even have an extra day upfront.
Other Points To Consider
I should start with we really thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. Traveling to the Galapagos was an experience of a lifetime. It’s quite unforgettable.
- Expect a very active vacation. We actually wanted to have a balance of rest and activity, but this turned out to be more than we bargained for. We’re very glad that we did this before we are (ahem, much) older because a few more years may have made a difference.
- Ecuador = Equator = HOT SUN. Bring sun protection!!! Sun block. Lycra’s for snorkeling. Hats, if you are into it. Light-colored clothing. I made a mistake of taking the same clothes as I brought in Iceland 4 years ago (Yes, they still fit!). Wrong – I brought dark clothing then because I was thinking of laundry. Bring your beige quick dry clothes and shorts. Good news, T-shirts are cheap! $10 a pop – if you’re lucky.
- When you have shorts – bring mosquito repellent. If you think the look of your legs are repelling enough, still bring them.
- My biggest concern was food quality especially the water! In certain islands, if not all, you cannot drink tap water. The water is brackish. There’s plenty of bottled water available, but you got to balance it out with your use of plastic.
As I mentioned, once we arrived in the hotel in Santa Cruz,
we were provided water bottles. Because of the heat, the non-insulated water
bottles get warm very fast. So… if you
have space (or weight) in your luggage, bring your insulated water bottle. A
nice cold drink makes a big difference on a hot day!
- About food quality: I generally cannot eat from buffets, so I brought my share of granola bars as a back-up. This is a trick that I’ve been doing since I missed lunch when we were in China because I was so busy photographing (but I digress). Bringing my own provisions has come in handy in our trips now that food safety is a major consideration in my travels.
That said, the tour provided excellent meals. The only
meal I was not able to enjoy was the breakfast buffet in Santa Cruz. It was a good spread, I just
did not have any option available in the buffet. On the bright side, a number of mini
stores and coffee shops are open for breakfast… and I found a cool trendy
café.
- On Ferries and Water Taxis. To get to the ferry, you often need to take a water taxi. Water Taxis cost money -- from 50 cents to a dollar. Just be prepared with small change and they are not likely to change a $20 bill.
- Free time. This tour did not have a lot of free time, especially in Isabella. Expect packed days and rest as much as you can on your “free time”.
- DO spend some time in Quito – Loved the time that we spent in Quito – specifically in Old Town. Loved the architecture, the vibe and the people. We explored several good quality restaurants (even a pizza place) and had an awesome time walking.
Muchas gracias, Galapagos. Estuvimos encantados.
